![]() ![]() Not attending to this is usually the cause of many people experiencing poor performance from their 3-way fridge on 12V. Otherwise the voltage drop in the cable will be too much and the voltage at the fridge terminals will be too low for the 12V element to supply enough heat for the fridge to work efficiently. the engine is running and the alternator is supplying the power for the fridge.įurther, if you do want to run the fridge on 12V (many don't bother) AND you want the fridge to work efficiently, you need to use 6AWG (or 6B&S) cable. So, it is recommended you isolate the +VE wire using a Voltage Sensing relay OR a relay that only activates when the ignition is on (i.e. BUT the fridge will draw at least 15A and will flatten a car battery in 2-3 hours. They do not power anything else on the van NOR do they charge the battery in the van. But the two wires you have on pins 9 and 10 go directly to the 12V terminals on the fridge. On a Jayco, pin 2 goes to the AUX input of the Setec 12V power supply and battery charger.Īpologies if you already know this. You would probably be advised to use wire about the same size as is on pin 2 of the Jayco plug. Then run a wire from the +ve terminal of your battery via an inline fuse to pin 2. If it is wired as a reversing signal AND you want to have 12V supplied from your tug to provide 12V to the van (to run your lights etc and/or trickle charge your battery while you are driving) then you will need to disconnect the wire presently on pin 2, fold it back and insulate it. I would suggest you get a multimeter or a lamp to check how your tug is currently wired. ![]() This pin has two uses, either as a reversing signal, or as Jayco use it, to provide 12V from your tug. Pin 2 on your tug MAY be wired to provide the reversing signal. You want no more than 0.1 to 0.2V drop.Exactly as describes. If you don't believe me use this calculator and plug in 10A for the fridge or 15A for the fridge plus some battery charging. Many, many people (and the manufacturers!) get this wrong and then cry on popuportal their fridge doesn't work and their batteries don't charge. Wire and connectors are relatively cheap and it is pretty much the same labor regardless of the wire size you use. Not to mention non-existent battery charging while towing with the fridge off. I can assure you if you don't get this right and try to run your fridge from 12V while traveling the voltage drop from the TV to the trailer will cause current to flow out of your trailer battery to power the fridge and you'll arrive at the campsite with a discharged battery. If you bought a 7-pin that came with 12G wires "permanently attached" you have the wrong parts to make this work. I guess you can wire whatever color you want as long as it goes to the correct pin, but I would rather do it right to avoid future confusion.Ī proper 7-pin connector set will allow you to insert wires using screw terminals. I thought about jamming the loose wire back in a splice, but decided I should just redo the wiring on the trailer instead with a since piece of cable and remove the original 6-pin adapter.ĭoes anyone have a diagram of what each cable coming from the 6-pin jayco adapter does? I have found a few pictures online, but it seems like each picture labels the function of the wires differently, same with the 7-pin cable. It seems the previous owner decided to not replace the 6-pin but rather just patch into it with a 7-pin, so it's a mess. I opened all the wiring up and found about 6 butt splices and even a couple marettes holding the wiring together, as well as d disconnected wire, presumably what is causing my problems. After my last trip and having no left turn signal or brake lights, I realized I had a problem. My 2000 Jayco Qwest 10X had the wiring converted from the stock 6-pin rectangle adapter to a 7-pin adapter, presumably by the previous owner. ![]()
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